Easy Rider 2006: Day One, Seattle - Lewiston

It took a while -- but we finally got on the road, and we did 379 miles to Lewiston, Idaho. Considering how late we got started, this is a small miracle. To make it this far is about in line with our original itinerary and we figure we are only about a half day behind our original schedule. It took some doing however.

We got up at 6am and promptly called Harley Road Side Assistance -- the AAA type program that gives us a free tow to the nearest Harley dealer in case of a breakdown -- which we purchased especially for this trip. Our goal was to get to the dealer before they opened so as to be first in line. The nice operator at Road Side Assist said the truck would be there in 30-45 minutes, so we got dressed, loaded up and waited. Promptly in 30-45 minutes actually means 2.5 hours, as they finally showed up at 830am. Our flip-flop wearing, flat-bed tow truck driver -- lets call him Apu -- was a bit confused about how to first back down our driveway, and second, how to load Tony's bike. First hooked his tow strap to what he thought was the front fork, but really was Tony's windshield -- which when he started to pull, came right off. We then pushed the bike up to the top of the driveway, and Apu took the truck out into the street, where Tony rode down the street and up the flatbed ramp. The bed, having had spilled oil that Apu had thoughtfully sprayed with water to wash off before hand, was a bit slick and Tony skidded the bike along the bed and tipped it over and almost off onto the street. Fortunately he didn't and we got the bike upright with no damage, and off we went to Downtown Harley Davidson -- which is actually in Tukwila.

I rode ahead to warn them, and to plead that they take it right away. Fortunately they did, and while Tony slept, they worked, and after much testing, probing, and postulating, they diagnosed the short, fixed it, reattached the windshield that Apu had taken off, and sent us on our way at 11am.

We went half a block down the road to the gas station, filled up, and said to each other "Here we go!!" At that moment in time, the headlights on Tony's bike went out. Back up the street to Downtown Harley Davidson (actually in Tukwila) we go where they were quite shocked to see us return. We explained the problem and back up on the rack went the Road King. An hour later we went back in to find it stripped down to the frame and all the wiring essentially taken off. At this point we decide to go to lunch at the former Denny's across the street. By 1230p we wandered back to find the bike put back together with essentially all new wiring. A short test ride later and we were pronounced good to go -- again. Taking no chances, Tony knelt down in solemn prayer to the motorcycle Gods, and whatever he said, it must have worked because we hit the road at 1pm on the nose.

We went southeast and up and over the spectacular Chinook Pass on the east side of Mt. Rainier National Park. The air was crisp, clean and spectacularly fresh, and made us forget the 7 hour delay in starting today. It reminded us why we ride the motorcycles on trips like this.

After cresting the pass, we dropped down into Central Washington and Yakima (the Palm Springs of Washington according to their highway sign). They grow a lot of fruit in this part of the state -- or as they say every few feet along the highway -- FRUIT in all capital letters. Lots and lots of FRUIT. We don't know what kind of FRUIT, but it is for sale all along the highway. Being shouted at in all capital letters FRUIT -- with no explanation -- reminded me of traveling along Interstate 44 and old US 66 in Missouri, outside of St. Louis, where ever exit had a massive billboard that shouted JESUS. Just that -- JESUS. Maybe JESUS needs to go to Yakima and get some FRUIT.

It was HOT in Yakima too -- a tad over 100, which feels lovely straddling a hot motor clad in black leather while frying pan hot asphalt bounces heat back up at you.

We picked up the freeway for a stretch in Yakima and exited off in Zillah, Washington. Since we'd been working with our "higher power" all day -- ever since the parking lot of the dealership, and traveling through God's country up around Mt. Rainier, we decided to exit off in Zillah to try and find the much acclaimed, but never found, Church of God -- Zillah. (Say it out loud with me..Church of God Zillah.) The mythical church was nowhere to be found, so back on Interstate 84 we went. The drive through the lower Yakima Valley was long, noisy and HOT -- and exactly what we didn't want to do. Our original plan had been to get through this stretch early in the morning before the heat built up -- but as it was we had no choice. It was a long 75 miles to Pasco, where we picked up US 12 East.

Neither of us had been in this part of Washington -- and it was very charming. We especially loved riding through the vineyards, especially when the sprinklers were running, making the air deliciously cool. This is a rolling, hilly country, where grapes give way to wheat -- miles and miles of wheat. The highway winds through some small, almost ghost towns, along rusty railroad tracks, and tall grain elevators. We averaged about 50mph, and about 7pm stopped in the small town of Waitsburg for dinner. The only thing open was a charming tavern where we had home-made Calzone and Iced Tea.


It was still light when we left at 8p and we rolled east through more small towns and a spectacular sunset on the prairie. We dropped down to the Snake River and crossed into Idaho and found a nice motel in Lewiston and decided to stop here for the night.

Tony just walked down to the mini-mart for some ice-cream, and I'm looking forward to a cool shower and some needed sleep. It's been a very long day, but we are on the road to Salt Lake, and making good progress. Tomorrow we'll head south on US 95 towards Boise and hope to make Pocatello by nightfall of day two.

In the Quality Inn, overlooking the Snake River in Lewiston, ID --

Tony and Gary